A Glimpse Inside Tutankhamun’s New ‘Palace’ Before Its Grand Opening
As To Vima Gazino embarks on an exclusive visit to the much-anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), we explore and photograph what is set to be one of the world’s most remarkable cultural landmarks—just before its official inauguration.
The daylight casts atmospheric shadows around the statue of Pharaoh Ramses II.
A Chaotic Journey to History
Our taxi ride through the bustling streets of Cairo is nothing short of an adventure. The car is filled with the scent of heavy incense—or is it jasmine? The driver, wearing an overwhelming amount of cologne, weaves dangerously between other vehicles, speeding in areas where caution is needed and honking incessantly. All the while, he whispers prayers from his phone screen.
Ramadan has begun, and we place our hopes in Allah to guide us safely to our destination. Anyone who has experienced the chaotic traffic of Cairo understands the nerve-wracking ordeal—where traffic rules seem optional, red and green lights are often ignored, and pedestrians cross through moving cars as if gambling with fate.
Hundreds of exhibits displayed in expansive halls, seamlessly flowing from one to the next, take visitors on a breathtaking journey through 7,000 years of Egyptian history.
Photo by Kosmas Vidos.
Luckily, we survive the journey. As we pass crumbling neighborhoods, unfinished apartment buildings with precarious balconies, dusty mosques, and neglected Coptic churches, we witness firsthand the overwhelming contrasts of Egypt’s sprawling capital. Finally, after navigating streets lined with stray dogs and uncollected trash, we reach our destination.
A Vision from the Future
Turning onto a pristine new road—just as our driver narrowly avoids a collision with a rickety horse-drawn cart loaded with chickens—we catch our first glimpse of the Grand Egyptian Museum. Known as GEM or the Giza Museum, it stands before us like an image from the future. A marvel of science fiction, a beacon of progress, grandeur, and modernity, starkly contrasting the dusty, chaotic world surrounding it.
Built near the Pyramids of Giza, the GEM is one of the most ambitious and eagerly awaited museum projects in history. Its grand opening is scheduled for July 3rd, though any last-minute changes remain possible. Meanwhile, as final preparations are completed, the museum has already started welcoming its first visitors—ourselves included.
One of the many stone tablets featuring the captivating and enigmatic hieroglyphic script, displayed throughout the museum.
Photo by Kosmas Vidos.
An Architectural Marvel
The visionary behind this pharaonic endeavor (could there be a more fitting term?) is Farouk Hosny, a painter and Egypt’s Minister of Culture from 1987 to 2011. Inspired to create a new national museum after hearing the Cairo Museum (dating back to 1902) described as an aging "storage room" during a visit to France, he set his ambitious plans into motion.
In 1992, a presidential decree formalized the project, and a decade later, in 2002, an international architectural competition—sponsored by UNESCO—attracted over 1,500 design proposals from around the world. The winning design, created by Dublin-based architectural firm Heneghan Peng, aimed to seamlessly integrate ancient Egyptian geometry into a contemporary structure.
Construction began in 2005, but economic crises, political upheavals, and the COVID-19 pandemic led to significant delays. The final cost has exceeded $1 billion, funded by government resources, loans, and international sponsorships.
A Triangular Wonder
The museum’s design pays homage to Egypt’s ancient past while embracing modern aesthetics. Its imposing 800-meter-long alabaster-clad facade reflects sunlight, creating a breathtaking visual effect, particularly during golden hour. From above, the building forms an asymmetrical triangle, mirroring the geometry of the nearby pyramids. Water features near the entrance symbolize the Nile River—Egypt’s eternal source of life—as well as the journey from life to the afterlife.
As visitors approach, colossal hieroglyphics on massive walls come into focus. Tour guides pause to explain their meanings: “This represents eternity; this, the soul…” The journey into Egypt’s distant past has begun.
A Treasure Trove of Egyptian History
Inside, the museum boasts vast exhibition halls, conference centers, research laboratories, state-of-the-art artifact storage, souvenir shops, and restaurants. Upon entering, visitors find themselves in a dimly lit, cavernous hall—a stark contrast to the sun-drenched desert outside. A sense of reverence takes over. Overlooking the space is an awe-inspiring 11-meter-tall granite statue of Pharaoh Ramses II, weighing a staggering 83 tons, meticulously restored after being discovered in pieces in Memphis.
A grand staircase known as the Pharaohs' Stairway leads visitors to the main exhibition areas. Flanked by statues and sarcophagi, it offers a visual timeline of Egyptian art, enhanced by dramatic lighting that evokes a mystical ambiance. For those who prefer to skip the stairs, an escalator provides access to the upper levels.
The GEM will eventually house the complete collection of artifacts from Tutankhamun’s tomb—including his golden sarcophagus, the iconic throne, and his exquisite jewelry. Many of these treasures, never before exhibited, will soon be revealed to the public. While these halls remain closed for now, some objects are still displayed at the old Egyptian Museum in Cairo until their relocation.
Twelve completed galleries guide visitors through Egypt’s rich history, from prehistoric times through the Middle and New Kingdoms, all the way to the Greco-Roman era.
A Museum Fit for the Ages
Spacious and meticulously designed, the exhibition halls ensure that neither the artifacts nor the visitors feel cramped. Towering statues, sarcophagi, intricately carved hieroglyphic panels, household items, royal treasures, and everyday objects come together to narrate the extraordinary story of ancient Egypt. Informative, well-written descriptions accompany each artifact, making the experience both educational and immersive.
Natural light filters through the ceiling openings, casting ethereal beams that illuminate busts of regal women, the enigmatic face of a Sphinx, or towering columns inscribed with hieroglyphics. Strategic windows frame breathtaking views of the pyramids, reminding visitors that history continues beyond these walls.
Our guide, brimming with enthusiasm, repeatedly asks, “Do you like it? It’s important that people love it. We’re so proud of this museum. We overcame immense challenges to complete it. So, honestly—do you like it?”
The pyramids are visible through various openings in the building.
Photo by Kosmas Vidos.
How could we not? Beyond its architectural grandeur, what truly matters is the priceless historical and cultural wealth housed within. Naturally, as with any major project, debates will arise over aesthetics, display techniques, and other details.
But standing amidst these relics of a bygone era, surrounded by the silent guardians of ancient Egyptian civilization, one cannot help but feel a deep sense of reverence.
A Farewell and a Silent Prayer
As we step outside, the museum’s sheer scale and significance leave a lasting impression. The driver, who had been waiting for us, finishes his prayer, folds his mat, and prepares for our return journey. Silently, I offer my own prayer—not to my gods, but to his—hoping they grant him the wisdom to navigate us safely back through the labyrinth of Cairo’s streets.
And with that, we set off, carrying with us the echoes of an ancient civilization that still speaks to us across the millennia.
